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(★)(Of the numerous books in English dealing with the Kabuki theater of Japan, none so far has devoted itself exclusively to costume. And yet costume is undeniably one of the outstanding features of this exciting form of drama. For the essence of Kabuki is spectacle, and the splendor of its costumes is one of the compelling reasons for going to see it. And here, at long last, in this engagingly written and gorgeously illustrated book, Kabuki costume is given the full atention that it deserves. The attire of feudal lords and ladies of old Japan, warriors, priests, courtesans, Edo-period dandies, geisha, footmen, farmers --in fact, the whole array of Kabuki´s colorful characters-- is discussed in fascinating detail. From kimono and armor to undergarments, from wigs to footgear, from swords to hair ornaments --no aspect of costume or accessories is overlooked. Textiles and textile designs, in all their profusion of weaves, colors, and patterns, are carefully taken note of, and a number of important traditional designs are illustrated. Make-up and headdress, varying formats of costume for specific roles, styles of tying the obi-- all are expertly described. In addition to presenting the pageant of Kabuki costume itself, the author explores the historical background of the Kabuki theater and the evolution of its conventions in acting, staging, and costume design. The account is highlighted with revealing glimpses of backstage life, of famous actors and their influence on costume development, and of the mechanics of costuming a Kabuki production. Indeed, the world of the Kabuki comes alive in this thoroughly readable and informative book. It goes without saying that no writer could have undertaken so comprehensive a study of Kabuki costume without years of diligent research. Nor could it have been undertaken by one who had anything less than a long and intimate acquaintance with the Kabuki itself and with the actors, the costumers, and the specialists in Kabuki history. In all of these respects, author Ruth Shaver is eminently qualified. Her long residence in Japan after the Pacific War enabled her to give full time to her exploration of the Kabuki world, and her wide acquaintance among the people of that world gave her opportunities to acquire a wealth of knowledge about it. The reader of her book will quickly discover that her time and her opportunities were remarkably well employed. ◆Ruth M. Shaver went to Japan soon after World War II to join her husband, who was an officer with the American occupation forces. Her enchantment with Kabuki began at that time, and for fourteen years she studied it with devotion. Her interest gained her a host of friends among the actors and others associated with the theater. The expert knowledge that she gained in the world of Kabuki itself was supplemented by five years of private study under Japanese scholars. The illustrators of the book are Akira Sooma, painter, scholar, and authority on Kabuki costume, and Gakoo Oota, artist and adviser to the Meiji Theater in Tokyo and authority on ´kumadori make-up´.) |
BASE de DATOS, Biblioteca del Centro Cultural de la Embajada de Japon
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